How to Fix a Garbage Disposal: Jammed, Leaking, and Not Working
A garbage disposal that hums but does not spin, makes grinding noises, leaks, or simply does not turn on is a common kitchen problem. Most disposal issues have a simple fix that takes less than 10 minutes and no special tools.
How to Fix a Garbage Disposal
Problem 1: Disposal Hums But Does Not Spin
This means the motor is getting power but the flywheel is jammed. Something is stuck between the impeller plate and the grinding ring.
Fix
- Turn off the disposal at the wall switch. Never put your hand into a disposal.
- Use the hex wrench. Most disposals have a hex socket on the bottom center. Insert the Allen wrench (usually 1/4 inch — many disposals come with one) and turn it back and forth to free the jammed flywheel.
- If no hex socket: Insert a wooden broom handle into the disposal from above. Press it against an impeller blade and try to rotate the flywheel back and forth.
- Remove the object. With the disposal off, use needle-nose pliers or tongs (never fingers) to reach in and remove whatever caused the jam — bones, fruit pits, glass, utensils.
- Press the reset button on the bottom of the disposal unit. It pops out when the motor overheats from the jam.
- Turn on the water and test.
Problem 2: Disposal Does Not Turn On (No Hum)
If you hear nothing when you flip the switch:
- Press the reset button. Check the bottom of the disposal for a small red or black button. If it has popped out, push it in.
- Check the power. Plug a lamp into the outlet under the sink (if the disposal is plug-in style) to verify power. If no power, check the circuit breaker and the switch.
- Test the switch. If the outlet has power but the disposal does not respond, the wall switch may be faulty. Replace the switch and test again.
- If still dead, the disposal motor has likely burned out. Replacement is more practical than repair.
Problem 3: Disposal Leaks
Leaks can come from three areas:
Top (Sink Flange)
The mounting ring connecting the disposal to the sink drain has loosened or the gasket (or plumber’s putty) has failed.
- Tighten the mounting ring by turning the locking lugs
- If still leaking, remove the disposal, remove old putty, apply fresh plumber’s putty, and remount
Side (Dishwasher Connection)
The hose clamp connecting the dishwasher drain hose to the disposal inlet has loosened.
- Tighten the hose clamp with a screwdriver
- If the hose is cracked, replace it
Bottom (Disposal Body)
A leak from the bottom of the unit means an internal seal has failed. This is not economically repairable — replace the disposal.
Problem 4: Disposal Drains Slowly
- Turn off the disposal
- Check for clogs in the P-trap or drain pipe downstream
- Run cold water and operate the disposal for 30 seconds to flush debris
- If the disposal itself is full of standing water, the drain line is clogged — disconnect and clean the trap
Disposal Dos and Don’ts
Do:
- Run cold water before, during, and for 15 seconds after grinding
- Feed waste gradually, not in large batches
- Grind citrus peels occasionally to clean and deodorize
- Run the disposal regularly to prevent corrosion and buildup
Don’t:
- Put grease, oil, or fat into the disposal (they solidify and clog drains)
- Grind fibrous materials like celery, corn husks, or artichoke leaves (they wrap around the impeller)
- Put pasta, rice, or potato peels in large quantities (they expand and create paste)
- Put coffee grounds in the disposal (they accumulate in the trap)
- Use your hand to retrieve objects — always use pliers or tongs
- Use hot water while grinding (it melts grease, which then re-solidifies in the drain)
Replacing a Disposal
When repair is not possible, replacement is a manageable DIY project:
- Disconnect power (unplug or turn off the breaker)
- Disconnect the drain pipe and dishwasher hose
- Twist the disposal off the mounting ring
- Install the new disposal onto the existing mounting ring (if compatible) or install a new mounting assembly
- Reconnect drain pipe and dishwasher hose
- Restore power and test
A standard 1/2 HP disposal costs $60 to $100 and handles most household needs. A 3/4 HP model ($100 to $200) grinds more effectively and jams less. Match the mounting system to your existing setup to simplify installation, or check the caulking and sealant guide for sealing the new flange.