Water seeping around the base of a toilet usually means the wax ring has failed. The wax ring is a soft, pliable seal between the bottom of the toilet and the drain flange in the floor. When it compresses, hardens, or shifts, sewer gas and water escape. Replacing it is not glamorous, but it is a straightforward repair that every homeowner can handle.

How to Replace a Toilet Wax Ring

Signs the Wax Ring Has Failed

Water pooling around the base of the toilet after flushing
Sewer smell in the bathroom, especially after flushing
The toilet rocks or shifts when you sit on it (movement breaks the seal)
Water stains on the ceiling below a second-floor bathroom

Tools and Materials

New wax ring (standard or extra-thick — see below)
Closet bolts (replace these too while you are at it)
Adjustable wrench
Putty knife or scraper
Rags or old towels
Bucket and sponge
Rubber gloves
Level (optional, for checking the toilet after reinstallation)

Wax Ring or Wax-Free?

Traditional wax rings cost $3 to $5 and have been the standard for decades. They seal well but are a one-shot deal — once compressed, they cannot be reused if you lift the toilet.

Wax-free seals (rubber or foam gaskets) cost $8 to $15 and can be reused. They are less messy and tolerate slight misalignment better. Either type works; the wax-free option is forgiving for beginners.

Choose an extra-thick wax ring if the toilet flange sits below the finished floor surface. The extra wax compensates for the gap.

Step-by-Step Replacement

1. Shut Off the Water

Turn the shutoff valve clockwise (it is behind the toilet, near the wall). Flush the toilet to empty the tank. Hold the handle down to drain as much water as possible. Sponge out any remaining water in the tank and bowl. Disconnect the supply line from the tank.

2. Remove the Toilet

Pop the caps off the closet bolts at the base of the toilet. Remove the nuts with an adjustable wrench. If the bolts spin, grip them with pliers while turning the nut.

If the nuts are corroded and will not budge, cut the bolts with a hacksaw or reciprocating saw with a metal-cutting blade.

Straddle the toilet, rock it gently to break the wax seal, and lift straight up. Toilets weigh 50 to 80 pounds — lift with your legs. Set the toilet on old towels or cardboard nearby.

3. Clean the Flange

Stuff a rag into the drain opening to block sewer gas (and to keep tools from falling in). Scrape the old wax off the flange and the bottom of the toilet with a putty knife. Get the surfaces clean — old wax prevents the new ring from sealing.

Inspect the flange:

Cracked or broken flange: A cracked flange will not hold the closet bolts securely. Install a flange repair ring (a metal or plastic piece that screws over the old flange).
Flange too low: If the flange sits more than 1/4 inch below the finished floor, use a flange extender or stack two wax rings (one regular, one with a funnel extension).
Flange too high: If it sits more than 1/4 inch above the floor, the toilet will rock. Depending on the amount, you may need to cut the flange down or shim the toilet.

4. Install New Closet Bolts

Slide new closet bolts into the flange slots. Position them on opposite sides, equidistant from the wall. Secure them with the bolt hold-down washers (the little plastic piece that keeps them from sliding around).

5. Set the Wax Ring

Place the new wax ring on the flange, centered over the drain opening. If using a ring with a plastic funnel extension, the funnel goes into the drain pipe.

Alternatively, press the wax ring onto the bottom of the toilet (the horn) — some people find this easier because you can see what you are doing. Either method works.

6. Set the Toilet

Remove the rag from the drain. Lift the toilet and lower it onto the flange, aligning the bolt holes with the closet bolts. Press down firmly and evenly to compress the wax ring. Sit on the toilet to apply your full weight and complete the seal.

Do not lift the toilet once it contacts the wax. If you need to reposition, you must remove the toilet and install a new wax ring. The compressed wax will not reseal.

7. Secure and Reconnect

Thread the nuts onto the closet bolts. Tighten them alternately (left side, right side, left side) to apply even pressure. Snug them firmly but do not overtighten — porcelain cracks easily.

If the toilet rocks, shim the low side with plastic toilet shims (available at any hardware store). Trim the shims flush and caulk around the base for a finished look.

Reconnect the water supply line. Turn on the water, let the tank fill, and flush several times. Check around the base and at the supply connection for leaks.

8. Caulk the Base (Optional)

Many plumbers caulk around the base of the toilet with silicone caulk, leaving a small gap at the back. This keeps water from getting under the toilet during mopping and gives a clean look. The gap at the back allows any future wax ring leak to be detected rather than hidden.

Replacing a wax ring costs under $10 and takes less than an hour. It is one of those repairs that sounds unpleasant but is genuinely simple — and it solves a problem that only gets worse if ignored.